01 Food tours
Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Jerusalem.
No tours listed for Jerusalem yet — check back soon.
Sabich stuffed with aubergine, hummus with warm chickpeas on top, mixed grill in laffa, malabi rose water pudding. Palestinian, Yemeni and Ashkenazi cooking share the same street.
04 The pantry
- Tahini, stone-ground sesame paste from Nablus mills
- Sumac, tart ground berries scattered over hummus and salads
- Za'atar, wild thyme, sesame and sumac spice blend
- Amba, Iraqi pickled mango sauce for sabich and shawarma
- Bulgar, cracked wheat for kibbeh and mujadara
05 In the kitchen
- Assembling sabich pita with fried aubergine, egg and pickle
- Baking rugelach chocolate-cinnamon pastries at Marzipan bakery
- Roasting meorav yerushalmi mixed grill on a flat griddle
- Baking knafeh under a crackling shredded phyllo topping
- Simmering hummus chickpeas until they collapse to a silky puree
06 Eat this first
- Hummus, warm chickpea puree with tahini, olive oil and paprika
- Sabich, pita stuffed with fried aubergine, egg, salad and amba
- Meorav yerushalmi, mixed-grill offal in laffa bread
- Kunafah, syrup-soaked shredded pastry over stringy Nabulsi cheese
- Malabi, milk pudding scented with rose water and pistachio
What happens inside a hammam kitchen
A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.
10 Field Notes
Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Jerusalem.
Weather
Mediterranean climate at altitude — warm, dry summers (28°C) and cool, wet winters that occasionally bring snow. Spring and autumn are the ideal months.
Currency
The Israeli new shekel (ILS); cards accepted widely but cash is useful in the Old City souks. ATMs are common in the modern centre.
Language
Hebrew and Arabic are official; English is widely understood in tourism and business. Signage is often trilingual.
Etiquette
Modest dress everywhere in the Old City — cover shoulders and knees. Different quarters (Jewish, Christian, Muslim, Armenian) have different codes of conduct; ask before entering religious sites.
Getting around
The Old City is walking-only inside the walls; the light rail runs along Jaffa Road and connects most neighbourhoods. Taxis are metered (insist on it) and Gett is the local ride app.
Prayer
Three faiths shape the week: Muslim prayers five times a day, Jewish Shabbat from Friday sundown to Saturday sundown (most of the city shuts), and Christian services on Sunday.