Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Jaipur

Bread slaps against blazing tandoors, spices bloom in sizzling ghee and giant pots of slow-cooked curries bubble beneath the desert sun.

Roadside Hanuman shrine.
No. 837Roadside Hanuman shrine.Jaipur, 2025

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Jaipur.

Rajasthani Relish
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Rajasthani Relish

Jaipur

—(NEW)

A curated food tour through the streets, markets and family kitchens of the destination — flavour by flavour.

4 HoursMultiple Tastings
Pink City Bites
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Pink City Bites

Jaipur

—(NEW)

A curated food tour through the streets, markets and family kitchens of the destination — flavour by flavour.

4 HoursMultiple Tastings

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Jaipur food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Idol-maker's storefront.
No. 014Idol-maker's storefront.Jaipur, 2025
Trays of mithai.
No. 284Trays of mithai.Jaipur, 2025
Makhaniya lassi cups.
No. 343Makhaniya lassi cups.Jaipur, 2025
Rooftop macaques.
No. 141Rooftop macaques.Jaipur, 2025
Crisp samosas.
No. 556Crisp samosas.Jaipur, 2025
Samosas and jwala chilli.
No. 593Samosas and jwala chilli.Jaipur, 2025
Samosa hot from the fryer.
No. 279Samosa hot from the fryer.Jaipur, 2025
Straining fresh chai.
No. 595Straining fresh chai.Jaipur, 2025
Clay kulhads masala chai.
No. 171Clay kulhads masala chai.Jaipur, 2025
Aloo tikii chaat.
No. 527Aloo tikii chaat.Jaipur, 2025
Kachori-wallah.
No. 923Kachori-wallah.Jaipur, 2025
Frying aloo.
No. 135Frying aloo.Jaipur, 2025
Rajasthani kadhi kachori.
No. 862Rajasthani kadhi kachori.Jaipur, 2025
Haveli doorway.
No. 021Haveli doorway.Jaipur, 2025
Namkeen plate.
No. 287Namkeen plate.Jaipur, 2025
Aloo tikki.
No. 104Aloo tikki.Jaipur, 2025
Electric rickshaw.
No. 275Electric rickshaw.Jaipur, 2025
Royal-style paneer curry.
No. 570Royal-style paneer curry.Jaipur, 2025
Saffron milk kesar rabdi.
No. 368Saffron milk kesar rabdi.Jaipur, 2025
Saffron pistachio fresh butter.
No. 085Saffron pistachio fresh butter.Jaipur, 2025
Rasmalai in kulhads.
No. 590Rasmalai in kulhads.Jaipur, 2025
Slow-cooked nihari.
No. 682Slow-cooked nihari.Jaipur, 2025
Crumbly besan churma.
No. 567Crumbly besan churma.Jaipur, 2025
Dahi chutney patashi.
No. 235Dahi chutney patashi.Jaipur, 2025
Lentil dumplings in yoghurt.
No. 063Lentil dumplings in yoghurt.Jaipur, 2025
Hawa Mahal at dusk.
No. 477Hawa Mahal at dusk.Jaipur, 2025
Silver-leafed kaju rolls.
No. 038Silver-leafed kaju rolls.Jaipur, 2025
Honeycomb ghevar.
No. 116Honeycomb ghevar.Jaipur, 2025

Laal maas fired with red mathania chillies, ker sangri desert stew, ghee rich dal baati churma, panchmel dal. Rajasthani cooks build depth with dried spice, not fresh herbs.

04  The pantry

  • Mathania chillies, deep red Rajasthani chillies for laal maas
  • Ker sangri, dried desert berries and beans
  • Ghee, clarified butter poured over dal baati by the ladle
  • Besan, gram flour that carries the desert kitchen
  • Yoghurt, thick curd that stands in for water in dry cooking

05  In the kitchen

  • Slow-simmering laal maas in yoghurt and chilli-heavy masala
  • Baking baati dough balls over cow-dung embers
  • Dry-roasting panchmel dal five lentils for the Rajasthani plate
  • Preserving vegetables in oil and spice for the dry season
  • Grinding ker sangri desert beans into pickle-like sabzi

06  Eat this first

  • Laal maas, red-hot mutton curry fired with Mathania chillies
  • Dal baati churma, baked dough balls with dal and sweet crumb
  • Gatte ki sabzi, gram-flour dumplings simmered in yoghurt gravy
  • Ker sangri, desert-berry and bean pickle-style sabzi
  • Ghewar, disc-shaped honeycomb sweet soaked in syrup
Map of Jaipur

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Jaipur. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Jaipur.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Jaipur.

Jaipur food hero.
No. 312Jaipur food hero.Jaipur, 2025
1

Weather

Semi-arid. Hot dry summers (40°C-plus in May), cool winters (10°C nights in January), and short pleasant spring and autumn windows.

2

Currency

The Indian rupee (INR); cash for auto-rickshaws, markets, and street food; cards for restaurants and hotels. UPI dominates for locals.

3

Language

Hindi and Rajasthani. English is widely spoken in tourism.

4

Etiquette

Modest dress at religious sites and in the walled Old City. Bargaining is expected in the bazaars, do it good-naturedly. Ask before photographing people.

5

Getting around

The Old City is atmospheric on foot but hot in summer. Auto-rickshaws are cheap; Uber and Ola both work. The metro is limited but useful across the centre.

6

Prayer

Deeply Hindu. Hundreds of temples across the Pink City. Muslim, Jain, and Sikh communities are also visible; the Amber Fort area has a small Sikh gurdwara.