Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Delhi

Bread slaps against the walls of blazing tandoors, ghee perfumes sizzling griddles and giant cauldrons bubble with rich curries.

Lemon wale.
No. 219Lemon wale.Chandni Chowk, 2019
“I felt completely safe and though it is a busy, intimidating place, I still got to let my guard down and enjoy the hustle and bustle fully.”

— Sara, 2026

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Delhi.

Chandni Chowk
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Chandni Chowk

Delhi

US $39(NEW)

Discover Delhi's last great Mughal table — tandoor kebabs, Mughlai curries and biryani.

4 Hours15+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Gajendra Singh Rathore

head guide

Manish

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Delhi food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Jalebi wale est. 1884.
No. 845Jalebi wale est. 1884.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Haveli doorway.
No. 234Haveli doorway.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Paratha, curries and pickles.
No. 739Paratha, curries and pickles.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Cycle richshaw resting.
No. 158Cycle richshaw resting.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Frying kachoris.
No. 839Frying kachoris.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Peneer butter masala.
No. 711Peneer butter masala.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Street artery through Chandni Chowk.
No. 408Street artery through Chandni Chowk.Chandni Chowk, 2019
The mighty Red Fort.
No. 325The mighty Red Fort.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Morning paper.
No. 200Morning paper.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Streets of Chandni Chowk.
No. 549Streets of Chandni Chowk.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Delivery at work.
No. 875Delivery at work.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Grocery shopping.
No. 778Grocery shopping.Chandni Chowk, 2019
The spice market.
No. 396The spice market.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Old town rooftops.
No. 670Old town rooftops.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Door haveli doorway.
No. 422Door haveli doorway.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Clay pot lassi.
No. 799Clay pot lassi.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Rolling parathas.
No. 265Rolling parathas.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Dropping jalebi batter.
No. 420Dropping jalebi batter.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Banana vendor.
No. 108Banana vendor.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Nankhatai vendor.
No. 745Nankhatai vendor.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Baked nankhatai.
No. 434Baked nankhatai.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Cloud-like daulat ki chaat.
No. 908Cloud-like daulat ki chaat.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Hole-in-the-wall stop.
No. 512Hole-in-the-wall stop.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Yogurt dahi bhalla.
No. 707Yogurt dahi bhalla.Chandni Chowk, 2019
City monkey.
No. 163City monkey.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Lemon wale soda.
No. 653Lemon wale soda.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Afternoon rest.
No. 891Afternoon rest.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Cart oranges.
No. 510Cart oranges.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Lentil kachori with potato curry.
No. 636Lentil kachori with potato curry.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Paanwala.
No. 374Paanwala.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Chandni Chowk shopkeeper.
No. 972Chandni Chowk shopkeeper.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Rooftops over the Red Fort.
No. 406Rooftops over the Red Fort.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Betal leaf paan.
No. 700Betal leaf paan.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Old-school iron.
No. 548Old-school iron.Chandni Chowk, 2019
Street ice pops.
No. 235Street ice pops.Chandni Chowk, 2019

Tandoor charred kebabs, slow simmered Mughlai curries, kachori snacks, saffron in the biryani. Delhi still cooks the last great Mughal table.

04  The pantry

  • Ghee, clarified butter that carries Mughal richness
  • Basmati rice, long-grained aromatic rice for biryani and pulao
  • Kasuri methi, dried fenugreek leaves finished over curries
  • Saffron, imported Kashmiri strands for kebabs and biryani
  • Amchur, dried mango powder for the sour edge in chaat

05  In the kitchen

  • Roasting seekh kebabs in a clay tandoor at fierce heat
  • Layering dum biryani in a sealed pot for slow steam cooking
  • Slow-simmering dal makhani overnight with butter and cream
  • Pounding fresh spices in stone mortars for garam masala
  • Pulling rumali roti paper thin over an inverted iron dome

06  Eat this first

  • Butter chicken, tandoori chicken bathed in a tomato and cream gravy
  • Chole bhature, spiced chickpeas with a puffed fried bread
  • Dal makhani, black lentils simmered overnight with butter
  • Paratha, ghee-flaked flatbread stuffed with potato or radish
  • Jalebi, coiled batter fried and soaked in saffron syrup
Map of Delhi

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Delhi. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Delhi.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Delhi.

Preparing lunch.
No. 336Preparing lunch.2025
1

Weather

Extreme continental. Hot summers (45°C plus in June), cool winters (near freezing in January with heavy smog), and short, pleasant spring and autumn windows (October–November, February–March).

2

Currency

The Indian rupee (INR). Cash for auto-rickshaws, markets, and street food. Cards in restaurants, hotels, and malls. UPI (Paytm, Google Pay) dominates for locals.

3

Language

Hindi and English are both official. English is widely spoken in business and tourism. Punjabi and Urdu are also common.

4

Etiquette

Modest dress at religious sites. Cover shoulders, knees, and (in Sikh gurdwaras) hair. Remove shoes before entering temples, mosques, and homes. Use your right hand to eat.

5

Getting around

The metro is clean, cheap, and covers most of the city. Signage is bilingual and women-only carriages are marked. Uber and Ola both work; auto-rickshaws require haggling or a metered fare.

6

Prayer

Deeply pluralistic. Hindu, Muslim, Sikh, Christian, Jain, and Buddhist communities all have major sites. Fridays quiet the Muslim quarters. Sundays fill the churches.