Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Colombo

Curry leaves crackle in coconut oil, hoppers crisp around the edges and fragrant spices toast gently beneath blackened clay pots.

No. 208Salting Atlantic sardinesBab Doukkala, 2026

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Colombo.

No tours listed for Colombo yet — check back soon.

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Colombo food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

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Coconut sambol, kottu roti clattering on the griddle, jaffna crab curry, hoppers with lace edges. Sri Lankan cooking sits between southern Indian and Southeast Asian in flavour.

04  The pantry

  • Coconut sambol, grated coconut pounded with chilli, lime and Maldive fish
  • Maldive fish, sun-dried tuna shavings used like anchovy
  • Curry leaves, snapped into every tempered oil
  • Pandan, rampe leaves scented into rice and curries
  • Cinnamon, true Ceylon quills from the island's south

05  In the kitchen

  • Toasting whole spices dark for black curry powder
  • Griddling kottu roti with a rhythmic double-cleaver clatter
  • Steaming hoppers in bowl-shaped pans for a lace edge
  • Grinding fresh coconut on a hiramanaya stool for sambol
  • Slow-braising ambul thiyal fish in goraka until glossy black

06  Eat this first

  • Rice and curry, the daily plate of five or six curries beside red rice
  • Kottu roti, chopped flatbread stir-fried on the griddle with egg and meat
  • Hoppers, bowl-shaped rice pancakes topped with a runny egg
  • String hoppers, steamed rice-flour nests with coconut sambol
  • Watalappan, coconut jaggery custard scented with cardamom
Map of Colombo

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Colombo. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Colombo.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Colombo.

Field notes
No. 189Carving roasted mechoui lambMedina
1

Weather

Tropical — hot and humid year-round (27–32°C). Two monsoons (May–September in the southwest, October–January in the northeast); Colombo gets both edges.

2

Currency

The Sri Lankan rupee (LKR); cash for tuk-tuks, markets, and street food; cards for restaurants and hotels. ATMs common.

3

Language

Sinhala is the majority language; Tamil is common; English is widely spoken in business and tourism.

4

Etiquette

Modest dress at temples and mosques — cover shoulders and knees. Remove shoes and hats before entering Buddhist temples; never turn your back to a Buddha statue for a photo.

5

Getting around

Tuk-tuks (with meters or via PickMe app) are the everyday ride; Uber and PickMe cars both work. Trains along the coast are cheap and scenic.

6

Prayer

Predominantly Theravada Buddhist with sizeable Hindu, Muslim, and Christian communities. The Gangaramaya temple in the centre is a major Buddhist site; nearby mosques and churches share the neighbourhood.