Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Chengdu

Chillies sputter in shimmering chilli oil, Sichuan peppercorns perfume the air and woks roar beneath clouds of fragrant smoke.

Salting Atlantic sardines
No. 042Salting Atlantic sardinesChengdu, 2026, 5.20pm

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Chengdu.

No tours listed for Chengdu yet — check back soon.

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Chengdu food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Salting Atlantic sardines
No. 042Salting Atlantic sardinesBab Doukkala, 2026
Mint tea, poured slowly
No. 118Mint tea, poured slowlyDjemaa el-Fnaa, 2025
Charcoal smoke and tagine
No. 273Charcoal smoke and tagineMellah, 2024
Spice market, dusk
No. 057Spice market, duskRahba Kedima, 2026
Slow-cooked lamb, seven hours
No. 199Slow-cooked lamb, seven hoursRiad Zitoun, 2025
The souk before opening
No. 314The souk before openingSouk Semmarine, 2024
Flatbreads, still warm
No. 086Flatbreads, still warmBab Doukkala, 2025
Cumin and clay
No. 245Cumin and clayKasbah, 2026
Kitchen off the medina
No. 167Kitchen off the medinaDerb Dabachi, 2024
Riad courtyard, morning prep
No. 093Riad courtyard, morning prepSidi Mimoun, 2025

Numbing Sichuan peppercorn, roasted chilli oil, doubanjiang bean paste, fermented mustard tuber. Nowhere on earth pushes ma la further than Chengdu.

04  The pantry

  • Doubanjiang, fermented broad-bean and chilli paste at the heart of Sichuan cooking
  • Sichuan peppercorn, huajiao that produces the numbing ma tingle
  • Chinese celery, ribbed and fragrant for cold appetisers
  • Yacai, salt-preserved mustard stems for dan dan noodles
  • Dried chillies, Facing Heaven and Er Jing Tiao varieties by the sack

05  In the kitchen

  • Building mala heat with peppercorn ma and chilli la
  • Frying dried chillies in oil for hong you chilli oil
  • Fermenting doubanjiang in Pixian for months to develop depth
  • Cooking hui guo rou twice, first boiled then stir-fried with paste
  • Simmering huoguo broth with dozens of spices at the tabletop

06  Eat this first

  • Mapo tofu, silken tofu smothered in numbing chilli oil and minced beef
  • Dan dan mian, wheat noodles under chilli oil, sesame paste and pickled greens
  • Hui guo rou, twice-cooked pork with leek and fermented bean paste
  • Huoguo, Chengdu hotpot fired with peppercorn and chilli oil
  • Fu qi fei pian, cold sliced beef and offal drenched in chilli oil
Map of Chengdu

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Chengdu. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Chengdu.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Chengdu.

Field notes
No. 189Carving roasted mechoui lambMedina
1

Weather

Humid subtropical — mild, damp winters and hot, sticky summers (30°C-plus with rain). The city is famously overcast; sunny days are called out on the news.

2

Currency

The Chinese yuan (CNY); WeChat Pay and Alipay dominate — cards are barely used at street level. Set up mobile payment before you land.

3

Language

Mandarin Chinese is standard; the local Sichuanese dialect is spoken widely too. English coverage is thin outside high-end hotels; translation apps are essential.

4

Etiquette

Chengdu is famously laid-back — the local pace is slow, tea houses are a way of life. Don't rush conversations or meals; it's a city that rewards lingering.

5

Getting around

The metro is fast, cheap, and expanding rapidly; Didi covers everywhere. Bike-share (Meituan, Hello) is huge — the city centre is mostly flat.

6

Prayer

Officially secular. Wenshu Monastery is a beautiful active Buddhist site in the centre; the Muslim (Hui) community has a long history in the west of the city.